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 Rhine River meanders around through the stony hills to form a steep (slopes have 30-70% gradient) , narrow valley in Mittelrhein just like in Mosel. Most of the vineyards have steep slate and are dramatically gorgeous. This is perhaps the reason that the 65-km stretch of the Mittelrhein between Bingen and Koblenz was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2002 and is a must-visit area for wine lovers who enjoy the beauty and panorama of the vineyards as well.
Mittelrhein is the second smallest wine regions of Germany with only about 450 hA of vines, 85% of which are white grapes-more than any other region except Mosel. Riesling forms 68% of the total cultivation and makes some excellent wines. Perhaps the proximity of Mittelrhein and Mosel makes them similar in many respects and certainly attractive as a wine tourism destination if you visit Mosel.
 The climate is mild with many sunny days and the Rhine acting as a giant heat reserve gives ideal conditions for Riesling which reflects the slate soil of the region. Not unexpectedly, the wine tourism industry is booming and although the majority of growers are small and medium-sized, their business is booming as they sell their wines at the cellar door.
However, the region has been generally on the decline in terms of wine production because of the high labour costs and inadequate returns. Wikipedia puts the shrinking of 36% of the total area of vines under cultivation from 1989-2009 even though Germany as a whole showed over 7% addition in cultivation. Due to this reason alone, their wines are not exported much and not much known even inside Germany. Lower yields raise the cost of production and the inability of the region to extract higher prices from the market, there is a crisis-like situation. Most of the producers we visited were keen to export, including India.
Here are the three wineries we visited in Mittelrhein before moving on to Rheingau.
 Located in the small beautiful town of Spay this small boutique winery with a holding of only 17 hA joined the prestigious VDP (Verband der Deutschen Pradicãts Winegüter, a German Association of fine quality wine producers which has been presenting their prestigious wines in India also over the last 4 years ) since 2007. This is a feat by itself and an evidence of their continued high quality. The third generation family owned winery makes only white wines, although it produces 4% Pinot Noir as well for the white wines. Perhaps, as a mark of recognition by the VDP,or working constantly with visitors, the winery though small, has a modern tasting room and an interesting walkway to this room. Curiously, one may see the houses surrounding the tasting rooms as well.
 Harvest is naturally all by hands and they survive the chore because 15 people come from the village at harvest time to help. It is usually in the first week of October; Riesling is a lape ripening variety, but this year it was a couple of weeks earlier, says Matthias Mueller because of hot season.
Bopparder Hamm is one of the coveted vineyards where this estate grows its fruit. Rheinschiefler Riesling ‘gutriesling ‘(basic wine) was slightly high in acidity but well-balanced with 8.7 gms residual sugar. At €5.90, it is a fantastic value-for-money wine.Bopparder Hamm Alter Reben Ortswine is made from 45 –year old wines.
It was very elegant and lively with passion fruit and pineapple in tthe flavours with minerality in the background.
Faverlay Bopparder Hamm was my most favourite wine out of the whole lot tasted. Their Feinherb was a bit offdry and had a lot of structure. They also make icewine but not all the years-last time was back in 2008. But they excel in Auslese. With lovely acidity, 125 gms sugar makes it an extremely balanced wine. We left the small estate with a smile!
 This is a tiny estate in the village of St Goar (pronounced go-are) with only 5hA planted-only 3 hA of which are in town, is being run by two brothers Thomas and Martin Philipps. They do not have a legacy of winemaking as the fatehr was a miller with no cozy nest to share. Working with 100 % commitment, the brothers are determined to make the project viable, especially since it was declared a UNESCO Heritage area.
 I tasted 8 wines-mostly delicious, some a bit too sharp for the Indian palate. But Goarer Frohwingert was lively, vibrant, elegant wine from slate soil. Concentrated aromas took time to open up. It was intersting to learn that the wine was very popular in local restaurants who serve them at higher temperatures like red wine, in winter. The much lower yield of 2.5 tons /hA ensured good concentration of fruit. An excellent example of dry Riesling with pure expression and beautiful balance!
The St. Groar Ameisenberger 2013 made from grapes on 60-year old vines would be a lovely combination with hot Indian food or with dessert. Very powerful, opulent wine, sharp with crisp acidity and 50 gms sugar (9.2 gm acidity-vry high) is full of concetration-not unxpected as the yield on the grapes is one tonne hA.
The Phillipps brothers do not export any wine due to the small production. It’s a matter of pride for them and a thing of joy for the connoisseurs that 75% of the wine goes to restaurants.
 Located in a small town called Bucharach, this winery is 500 years old and is run by Markus Heidrich and primarily his daughter Caterina. A very small boutique winery with a production of only 30,000 bottles out of which he opened about 30, the evening we went to visit his winery and were welcome in his dark cellar with sekt before going to the adjoing taverna for tasting and dinner!
 The family owns around 5 hA of land.Being a small winery every bit of work is done by hand-harvest, pruning, spraying. Labour is hard to come by so expansion is not feasible. The family has a beautiful and charming old tavern which Markus claims is 500 years-located on the main street. It has a lot of history in its decor. No wine apassanato should go to Mittelrhein without having the experience of a meal with their wines and pick up a couple of their bottles. One can buy wines some of which were delicious.
This boutique winery is not married to Riesling and has several other varieties, like Grauer Burgunder and Weisser Burgunder. Markus will tell you all about the slate soil in the area and the minerality-every bit of which is true. These wines are rare to find and are worth carrying home.
Bacharach is connected with Rheingau on the other side of River Rhein through ferry, where we went the next morning. An account of the visit will be in the following editions.
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