“Following a growing number of observations, it is obvious that there are one or more sources of random contamination of the oak wood by the TCA (Tri-Chloro- Anisole 2-4-6). These TCA contaminate then the wines aged out of new barrels”, explained the expert who was astonished by the initial lack of reaction from the world of cooperage.
However, the coopers are indignant at the Press Release and have reacted through their Association, saying, “These remarks are inaccurate and disparaging for the coopers of France.” The statement issued in French translates roughly as, “within our Federation, a technical commission has been working on the subject for many years, in collaboration with several analysis laboratories of repute, in order to understand accurately the means of detecting and of preventing this risk. The result of this research which continues without slackening of pace, is collected in the Guide of the Good Practices of the Wet cooper, on their Website and is distributed widely to their customers.
These initial results from the Excell laboratories will soon be published by “The Journal of Agriculture and Food Chemistry”. The origins of this TCA are not yet exactly known.
However Chatonnet insists otherwise and says“It is exactly the same as with the cork manufacturers, 20 years ago: the cork taste did not exist. One knows what happened next.”
These initial results from Excell laboratories will soon be published by The Journal of Agriculture and Food Chemistry. Incidentally, the origins of this TCA are not yet exactly known.
One person who may not buy the research by Chatonnet is Vanya Cullen, the managing director and senior winemaker at Cullen Wines in Western Australia’s Margaret River, who was also a fellow judge at the second edition of the India Wine Challenge in Delhi a couple of years ago. She says the use of natural cork is unacceptable for any wine. For me, the screwcap wins over cork every time’, she says.
The reason is not far from comprehending. At a historical 30-year vertical tasting of her Chardonnay with cork as the closure, she found that 1982 still was alive with golden tinges and some lovely citrus fruit’. But with the exception of 1997, 1998, 2000 and 2001, rest of the wines under cork had just died and the cork taint had killed the other vintages. She is convinced that cork is the sole culprit. |