Nov 14: KRSMA is perhaps the only Indian winery where the emphasis is on increasing age-ability and maturity of both red and white wines along with their approachability as seen once again when delWine organised an impromptu tasting and comparison of two vintages of two labels, with Mr. Krishna Prasad, the Hyderabad-based owner of KRSMA Estate, bringing Sauvignon Blanc (2013 and 2016) and Cabernet Sauvignon (2015 and 2012) for a private, exclusive tasting to see the evolution, writes Subhash Arora
Krishna Prasad is known to be passionate enough about wines to set very high standards for his wines. To help reach his objective, he takes constant feedback from wine lovers however outlandish they might be, so long as they are sincere. He was in Delhi to receive a distinguished Award from a Telugu organisation which would not take a ‘no’ for an answer. He arrived in Delhi last Sunday to be physically present at the Award Ceremony. He took this opportunity to get a feedback from some of the people he had met when I had taken a group of wine Connoisseurs to the World Wine Symposium at Villa d’Este three years ago. He carried with him four bottles- 2 Sauvignon Blanc (2016 and 2013) and 2 Cabernet Sauvignon (2015 and 2012).
Sauvignon Blanc 2016 was very fresh, perfumed with gooseberries exploding in the mouth and herbaceous; reminiscent of the New Zealand varietal. Sauvignon Blanc 2013 looked a bit doubtful initially with a slightly darker colour. It was not as fresh on the nose, though more complex and fuller bodied. The citrus and gooseberry aromas carried into the wine well. It was still very clean and fuller on the mouth with persistent after taste. Suffice it to say, that every once in a while I would take a sip of 2016 but finished off two glasses of 2013 which was the first one to finish. Verdict-still drinking well and would be so for the next at least 2 years. Incidentally, he says the 2017 is extremely sensational for its perfume. He also plans to experiment with a touch of oak- not exactly like a Californian Fumé but a shade more complex than the plain vanilla SS Tank Sauvignon.
Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 was released in the Bangalore last month only. Still very young, it was quite approachable. Elegant and fruity with lots of perfume, it changed its character in the glass. It is certainly a long-race horse and would age well for at least 10 years. The wine had nice structure and firm tannins and a touch of spices. Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 worried me a little when I nosed-it appeared slightly off-beat. But after a bit of swirling it was back on track. Drinking quite well, it needed better –more serious food. It should be good for another 5+ years-I would love to taste from one of his magnums, every year till it dies out (I hope I outlive the wine!).
There is no doubt that KRSMA wines are made to last-even the whites. But would a wine label introduced by KRSMA last? I think he made Moscato during the first couple of crops but was not satisfied as it was too common a variety. Chardonnay was also made for a couple of years and when I had it tasted with a group of connoisseurs at Villa d’Este where he had showcased the first vintage, the reviews were very positive. But that was set aside.
He introduced Sangiovese that came along beautifully ( I tasted pomegranates in the first vintage) and would have vied for the top spot in Indian wines with his meticulous approach. But the yield is so small that he is now planning to discard this varietal as well. Both the Sauvignon (Cabernet and Blanc) are his darlings right now. He has also unshared plans of producing a late harvest sweet wine in the near future but for now the perfectionist would keep us all guessing, while taking a constant feedback.
Elitist Wine
Meanwhile KRSMA wines are fast creating a new exclusive category for Indian wines. The well-crafted wines may be dear to your heart but certainly do not come cheap, if at all available; currently in Karnataka, Hyderabad and the US. KRSMA Cabernet Sauvignon that seemed a trifle expensive at Rs. 1500 when released 3-4 years ago, has become more expensive by 20% with the 2015 Release at Rs. 2,000. Very dear, my Dear!
And the cost of a Magnum?! Don’t worry about its being Rs. 4200+ (the earlier ones used to cost Rs. 3150, at 5% premium). They won’t be releasing any. Around 200 magnums are being produced but they will all go to the library and perhaps released in future. Partly to see how his wines age with time in a magnum and partly to be able to see how high the market will go, these wines would be only for the elitists. A liter bottle is in the offing and will also be the first such container in India-they were the first to introduce a Magnum red.
Krishna Prasad is not ruffled or apologetic about the increase. The soft-spoken and seemingly humble Krishna says, ‘let them not buy it if they find it too expensive. The fact is that at Rs. 2,000 a bottle also, we still don’t make any money.’ The wine may not be flying in the Bangalore but sales are sturdy and he says they have received some repeat orders too. It might a be a good time to buy earlier vintage magnums if available and then stored properly for future appreciation.
If you are not a believer in Indian wines or if you plan to be a collector, now is the time to buy and store. Even his full-bodied heavy weight bottles would hopefully be a collector’s item in a few decades.
Subhash Arora
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