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| Photo: Subhash Arora |
Angelo who also is a premium producer of Brunello di Montalcino and owns a winery Pieve di Santa Restituta in Montalcino recommends a two-tier system which will allow other varieties of grapes being used also and still keeping the Brunello label
In an article published this month in Italian newspaper Libero and local Tuscan paper La Nazione, Gaja reportedly says that if indeed Brunello producers have been adding other grapes to the wine, making them illegal according to the appellation laws, they should lobby hard to get the rules amended.
There is already a precedent in the nearby Chianti Classico where 100% Sangiovese was not even allowed till a decade back and certain amount of other grapes had to be mixed to get the docg appellation (same as Brunello and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano from the nearby Montepulciano which also uses Sangiovese grapes, though different clone). The quality of Chianti Classico has since improved significantly and producers are able to command premium for their wines.
Incidentally, when the controversy was at its peak in June, Indian Wine Academy had suggested partly in jest that the laws should allow making another wine for the US market, and calling it Super Brunello. The suggestion was frowned upon by the producers, especially the traditionalists, saying that making Brunello ready younger and making it with other ingredients will spell disaster.
During the visit of a group of journalists and importers to Montalcino in June, organised by the Indian Wine Academy in collaboration with the Italian wine specialist and journalist Michelle Shah, Franco Biondi Santi, the owner of the oldest producer, Biondi Santi, while being confident of no wrongdoing by the accused producers did tell delWine in strong terms about the typicity and longevity of Brunello because of the grapes, special clones and the traditional way of processing. He did not favour moving away from traditionalism.
Franco and many of his traditionalist followers have every reason to be stern. He has 1886 and 1891 vintages of Brunello still alive in his special cellar which he had shown to the group. His grandfather Ferruccio had 'discovered' Brunello in its current format. Also, the charm and identity (read Branding) of Brunello would be diluted, by adding other grapes, feel many experts.
'It's high time to stop these declarations that propose changing Brunello's production code to allow grapes other than Sangiovese,' said Count Francesco Marone Cinzano, owner of Col d'Orcia (importer in India, Ace Beveragez) and former president of the Consorzio, who was caught in the fire at the peak of controversy and stepped down as its president in early June. 'Adding other grapes to Brunello would be a grave mistake,' says the internationally known wine maker Cotarella.
Most producers delWine had talked to were of the opinions that the current laws governing the single varietal wines in Italy are too stringent. Said Emilia Nardi, the charming owner of Tenute Silvio Nardi, a famous producer of traditional award winning Brunello wines, 'it is extremely difficult to have one hundred percent Brunello grapes in the vineyards. In most countries they use 15% or even more of other varieties and still call them mono varietals. The laws should allow a tolerance level of 1- 3% of other grapes, to correct errors due to the nurseries.'
The issue is constantly debated within the producers due to divergent views. Two years ago Brunello producers who have formed the association, Consorzio Brunello di Montalcino had voted against changing the production process.
At the center of the controversy is Banfi, one of the biggest producers of Brunello. Banfi is family owned winery and is one of the biggest producers of Italy. Cristina Mariani-May, the owner and her family made it phenomenally popular in the USA and then the world. Most Americans like to tell the world they drink the best labels, but their tastes being attuned to more powerful and bold wines, like those Cabs of California, they would love their Brunello but in the new style- bolder , more easily approachable and drinkable younger. A dash of Cab or Merlot night be just the recipe that pleases their palates.
Banfi whose wines were also confiscated by the US authorities until the case could be resolved, has been accused of adding some of the desired grape varieties making the wines more tuned to the American palates- a charge vehemently denied by Cristina Mariani-May, American owner of the company. The company also denies any wrongdoings claiming it is not possible or conclusive from the type of the tests performed to tell if any wine has other grape varietals in them.
Brunello from the Antinori-owned 'Pian delle Vigne' Brunello was the first to be released 3 months ago when the Italian authorities were convinced it was '100% Brunello.'
Another problem is that in many parts of Montalcino, Sangiovese does not grow very well. Admitting the problem, Franco Biondi Santi suggests relaxing the laws for Rosso di Montalcino, the younger sibling of Brunello, which also uses Sangiovese but the rules of cultivation and winemaking are relaxed to make it drinkable younger, making it one of the best value-for-money wines from Italy. Majority of local producers are in favour of this modification.
However, according to Decanter, Gaja feels that, 'If the current investigations demonstrate the use of varieties different from Sangiovese for the production of Brunello di Montalcino, then the gravest error on the part of producers would have been the fact that no-one moved to modify the appellation production rules in a timely way and remove the iron rule of 100% Sangiovese.' Gaja is known to hold the bull by the horn.
Angelo supports Banfi as much as Franco, admitting that' Brunello's success is the result of a synergy between artisanal (Biondi Santi) and volume producers (Banfi) embodied by the historic leadership of Franco Biondi Santi and the marketing expertise of Banfi.
After early errors, he argues, Banfi had become the 'driving force' of the appellation, creating a demand for Brunello in the US which soon spread around the world.
Many romanticists feel that Montalcino has another possibility for the maverick producers-to make wines in the DOC appellation of Sant'Antimo which allows a lot more flexibility in the grape selection and the winemaking process and ageing rules.. It also sells for less than a fourth the price of Brunello.
For now, it appears that the Prince of Piemonte as Decanter refers to him, has added fuel to the fire and the controversy rages on with many producers making diverse statements, claims and counter claims-generally worked up in a true Italian style.
But what do you say to Super Brunello di Montalcino, Angelo? Americans would love it. The world may go for it. The Montalcino producers should also be able to do better with sales. It fits in with your suggestion of calling both the wines as Brunello!! I am sure Banfi would go with the idea, though Biondi Santi would want to throttle me.
Subhash Arora
September 29, 2008
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