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 A short report in Decanter last Wednesday transported me to the Fangshan (also known as Funhill in English) District of Beijing where my long-time wine and spirits journalist friend Yair Kornblum Koren from Israel made a presentation with tasting of wines along with Ms. Dorit Ben Simon, Int'l marketing and sales manager at Carmel and Yatir Wineries, during the Conference on 10-12 October.
The report was about thieves plundering the Seventh Century BC scroll from caves in the Judean Desert and discovered by Israel’s Antiquities Authority after its enforcement unit raided the thieves’ cache of stolen goods. The document is printed on papyrus and is a royal order for ‘two jars of wine’ from the king’s maidservant in Jerusalem. It is also the latest evidence of wine being trade in the region thousands of years ago.
ANCIENT HISTORY
According to Yair Koren, the wine history in Israel can be traced to 6000 BC when Domestication of wild vines took place in the ancient orient. But the vine would have likely arrived in Canaan ( a country including Jordan, Syria, Lebanon and present day Israel in 5000 BC. Noah planted first recorded vineyard in 2000 BC.
The oldest known wine cellar in the Middle East was in Tel Kabri, Western Galilee in Israel in 1600 BC and was uncovered in 2013 when 3700-year old jars in palatial wine cellar were also unearthed. The researchers also excavated 40 intact vessels. A large winery from the Roman or Byzantine period, around 1600 years ago was uncovered in Jerusalem, February 2016 by the Israel Antiquities Authority, said the presenters. But after the Muslims conquered the region in 635 AD, the vines were uprooted and there was no wine production for over 1200 years.
MODERN HISTORY
The first winery in the modern history was founded by Rabi Mordechai Avraham Shor for setting up the first recorded winery in Palestine in 1848. His descendents still control several wineries including ‘Winery 1848’. But the credit for setting up a modern winery goes to Baron Edmond de Rothschild in 1882. The owner of Chateau Lafite was a French Zionist from the French arm of the Rothschild family who is credited with initiating an upsurge in the quality of viticulture in Israel. This was followed a century later with Golan Heights Winery in 1983.
The wine industry has been maturing since the 1990’s when the wine market started the upsurge with several new, small & medium sized wineries started coming up. International recognition came their way finally during the last decade.
WINE REGIONS
Israel is a long and narrow country, like Chile in South America. It lies at the latitude band of 29° N to 33° N. There are 5 wine regions- Galilee, Shomron, Samson, Judean Hills and the largest region Negev.
 The soil is Volcanic in the north, Terra Rossa in coastal regions, Chalk & Limestone on the hills and Sandy clay in the south.
The climate is Mainly Mediterranean and Semi arid. Being a desert means long hot dry summers, short wet winters and snow at higher altitudes. As one travels southwards, the temperatures rise and precipitation falls. Also as one moves away from sea the humidity levels fall.
WINERIES
Although there are only 60 wineries commercial wineries there are over 200 wineries that are Boutique & Garagiste. But most of the business is in the hands of 10 large wineries which control 90% of the market. In fact 70% of the market is being supplied by the top four – Barkan, Carmel (second biggest), Golan Heights and Teperberg.
GRAPE VARIETIES
They told us that although Israel boasts a couple of indigenous grape varieties like the red Argaman (a cross between the Portuguese Port wine grape Souzão- I wonder how it crept up in Israel!) and Carignan, Israel banks upon international grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, Merlot, Syrah, Petit Sirah (Durif), Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Tempranillo, Mourvedre. Grenache and the Italian variety Barbera in red and Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Columbard, Viognier , Chenin Blanc, Semillon, White Riesling Emerald Riesling (a cross between Riesling and Muscadel), Roussanne and Muscat of Alexandria) in white wines.
THE WINE MARKET
 Wine Market in Israel is about $250 million annually. Domestic wines account for 80% while the balance 20% are imported mainly from France, Italy and Chile. Like in India they drink more of red wine-around 70% despite the Mediterranean climate while only 20% are white, the rest being sparkling or Rose wines. Consumption per capita is quite high at 5 liters per person.
Wines from Israel are also exported to USA, UK, Germany, France, Canada, China and Japan. Part of the reason could be that Israel specialises in making kosher wines and many Jews, especially the orthodox Jews in New York won’t drink unless it is kosher. Dorit clarified that there was no correlation between a wine's quality and weather it was kosher or not though kosher wines were expensive due to the higher costs, including the cost of bringing in a rabbi and the strict inspection of the whole process in which no one but the rabbi may touch the wine or any ingredient.
TASTING WINES OF ISRAEL
In a seminar of 30 minutes, it is difficult to serve wines as well but Yair and Dorit managed to pack in 6 wines for tasting:
Yatir - Viognier 2014 was a 100% Viognier
Domaine du Castel - C Blanc du Castel 2015 was 100% Chardonnay
Carmel - Mediterranean 2011 was the red Blend of Shiraz, Petite Sirah, Carignan, Mourvedre and a sprinkling Viognier, modelled after Cote du Rhone, presented by Dorit who is their international export manager
Golan Heights - Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
Domain du Castel - Grand Vin 2013 was a Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. This was my clear favourite- an elegant and balanced wine with a lot of complexity and aging potential.
Golan Heights - Yarden Blanc de Blancs 2008
The seminar was later followed by Dorit who presented wines from Yatir; a winery owned by Carmel Winery- the two presentations were enough to whet your appetite for Israeli wines.
Shalom! Cheers!! Jai Ho!!!
Subhash Arora
This is the fourth Article in the series on the First Asian Wine & Spirit Forum and Tasting – The Silk Route. Other Articles already published are:
1 BRWSC 2016: Asian Producers promoting Region wines through AWPA
2 BRWSC 2016: Wine Tourism is the Key
3 BRWSC 2016: Grover La Reserve cracks the Code for Gold
Tasting Notes of Wines poured |