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 The tradition of selling wines En Primeur or Futures began as early as 18th century. A big chunk of the harvest was bottled in the wine merchants’ warehouse and this kept happening till the middle of 20th century. The wine maker had neither the technical expertise nor ample storage facilities at his winery. Around the middle of 20th century, with the initiative of Baron Philippe de Rothschild the practice of wine bottling in the winery started and has been working like that since then. Before being sold to the merchants the wine from the latest harvest undergoes barrel ageing of 18 to 24 months followed by bottling at the property itself.
En Primeur is like buying Futures
In the tradition typical to the Gironde region (of which the city of Bordeaux is the prefecture) buying wines En Primeur means that customers purchase wines from the latest harvest at an early stage while it is still in the barrels. Only the Grands Crus Classé (Top Five Growths)and some highly rated wines are sold En Primeur. The success of En Primeur sales depends on the general reputation of the vintage, and the global economic context, as was reported by our Bordeaux Correspondent in delWine last year.
Here is how it works- the journalists and other important people related with the trade are invited for a week of tastings during the first week of April. At the end of April or in May journalists release their comments on the wine tasting along with their grades and comments. Subsequently, prices are offered from May to the end of June, after which wines are put on sale. Initially, only merchants from the Bordeaux market can buy En Primeur, at a price supposedly lower than that after bottling. Afterwards these wines are available for other French and international merchants. After 18 months the bottled wine is delivered to the buyer- from individuals looking for a single case to wine merchants to collectors who look at wine as an investment.
However, according to Robert Joseph, well known wine critic, author and journalist, ‘until the 1961 vintage, the chateaux mostly sold their wine sur souche - while it was still on the vine, prior to the harvest.’
Modern En Primeur
For over 40 years, the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB) has been organising the event where the wine from the previous vintage is tasted from the barrels. Recent vintages of great Bordeaux wines produced by their members are also available for tasting. This is a ‘must-visit once at least’ event for any collector or connoisseur of French wines- especially Bordeaux.
Olivier Bernard, current President of the UGCB, who came to India during the last visit of UGCB producer members in India, representing his iconic Domaine de Chevalier says, ’our programmes have constantly evolved over the years in keeping with our desire to provide the best possible events. After much thought, we have decided to give a new impetus to en Primeur week in Bordeaux, although our goal remains the same: to improve your tasting comfort.’
Programme for April 4 and Conference
Chalking out the complete programmes, he says, ‘we have decided to present the 2015 vintage by organising a Conference and talks on the 2015 vintage, which will be given by the Faculty of Oenology on the afternoon of Monday the 4th of April in the Sauternes appellation. There will also be a traditional tasting at classified growth châteaux in Sauternes and Barsac. The traditional Welcome Dinner for Journalists will be organised on Monday the 4th April at Château de Fieuzal.’
‘In order to provide optimum tasting conditions, we decided to choose a single, large, conveniently-located, well-lit, and functional venue this year. Stade de Bordeaux, the new stadium will enable you to taste wines from the 2015 vintage in one location on Tuesday the 5th and Wednesday the 6th of April 2016.’ In the past, this was spread over for 5 days and at 25 different sites,’ he says.
Programme for April 5 and 6
‘Tuesday, the 5th of April is reserved for estates in the Graves, Pessac -Léognan, Saint Emilion, and Pomerol appellations. Sauternes and Barsac will also pour their wines at a sit-down tasting from 9 am to 1:30 pm. A buffet lunch with the château owners will be served from noon onwards.
The same schedule is planned for Wednesday, the 6th, when people will be able to taste wines from the Médoc. Furthermore, Sauternes and Barsac will once again be offered for those who did not have time to taste them the day before, ‘ he says implying extra ordinary opportunities to taste wines from the latter.
No Closure
In light of the lunches attended by château owners and journalists on Tuesday and Wednesday, there is no closing dinner this year for journalists. However Bernard stresses that wine can also be sampled at the usual "stand-up" tastings for the trade that will take place in châteaux in the various appellations on the 5th, 6th, and 7th of April.
Silent Tasting Area
Silent Tastings have been de rigueur at international wine shows to let people taste undisturbed; this year’s En Primeur will also include a new "VIP Silent Tasting" area for the guests. ‘This will feature the customary stand-up format in the presence of the château owners all day long on Monday, the 4th of April at the Stadium. This tasting is specifically aimed at distributors who must register beforehand and reserve a time slot. Attendance will be subject to availability. On request, we will also be glad to welcome journalists who wish to take part,’ adds Bernard.
No Blind Tastings
‘In order to provide the same conditions for tasting wines en Primeur, be it a UGCB member or not, we will no longer be offering blind tastings. We believe this is more equitable for our estates because it avoids using two methods we feel are too far apart, says Olivier, clarifying that the new format will be evaluated during the second quarter of 2016 to enable the UGCB to tweak the future programs in order to give a more pleasurable experience to the visitors.
The unique program is in the bucket list of a significant number of importers, buyers, consultants, collectors and journalists etc. and must be experienced at least once as soon as possible so that there are more opportunities available to repeat it, if found extremely important.
En Primeur 2013: The Math and Aftermath
Bordeaux En Primeur 2013: News, Views and Frenzy
Bordeaux 2011: En Primeur Wine ‘Sale’ is on
En Primeur 2009 Wines from the Master’s Palate
Subhash Arora |