Speaking at a seminar on the world famous Montalcino wines, Count Francesco Marone Cinzano, President of the Consorzio del Vino Brunello de Montalcino informed the full-house of appreciative audience at Hotel Intercontinental, Barakhamba Road, that the 2003 vintage had just been released and India was the first country where formal tasting had taken place; New York is the next stop.

The tasting was a part of the programme carried out in Vinitaly India, the annual wine event held in Mumbai and Delhi for one day. This year it was held in Mumbai on January 15 and Delhi on January 17. It ran concurrently with IFOWS, the annual food and wine show being held from 17-19 Jan at the same venue in Delhi.

Brunello di Montalcino is a DOCG wine made from the Sangiovese grape, known as Brunello here, under strict guidelines that are getting even more strict with climate change (for instance the yield limit of 8 tons/hA has been reduced to 7 tons/hA, as the Count explained). The Brunello wines need to be stored in the barrels and bottles and can be released in the beginning of the fifth year; so the 2003 vintage can be released in 2008 and so on.

Seven wines, including a Rosso di Montalcino ( a younger wine made with less stringent conditions and higher yield; the wine is also ready to drink much earlier) were presented by Michelle Shah, the well known journalist and wine writer and author, a specialist in Italian wines.

Piancornello (Rosso), Castello Romitorio, Tenuta Caparzo, Castelgiocondo, Uccelliera, Siro Pacenti and Col d’Orcia Estate wines were presented by Michelle. The 1999 Reserve from d’Orcia was piece de resistance of the seminar. All wines tasted (excluding Rosso) will be around for 20 years or more, due to their extra-ordinary longevity.

Many producers like Antinori and Banfi were represented already by the stalwarts like Brindco and Sonarys. But it was a pleasure to see the newborns Finewinesandmore, Amfora and Wine Park who are specializing in Italian wines in a big way and are sure to give the stalwarts major headaches in the years to come with portfolios like Quarciabella, Brancaia, Santa Margherita, Carpené Malvolti. Ace Beveragez may not be in the same class as the Brindcos, but Col d’Orcia they import can make them hold their heads high. The new kid on the block, Opera of Gurgaon has also given an ultimatum with a French and beautiful brand ambassador already in tow.

The crowd and the exhibitors seemed to be more than one could estimate by counting numbers, due to the infrastructural constraints and the the high density of the tasting tables. A few bottles were broken; the breakers need not be embarrassed. But the enthusiasm shown by the visitors kept on swelling as the day went by perhaps due to the bulging intake of some of the best Italy has to offer, with sparsely used spittoons.

It was heartening to see the presence of Consorzia like those from Brunello, Montepulciano and Chianti Classico. Said Silvia Fiorentini, the Communications Manager of Chianti Classico Consorzio, ‘ We are very satisfied with the response in Delhi though people do worry about higher prices of the Chianti Classico wines’ which are higher quality but more expensive too. Agreed Michelle, who was overwhelmed with the fact that some people could not be accommodated at the Brunello seminar in Delhi due to lack of space. Said Count Cinzano, ‘ Brunello is a top end wine. For the connoisseurs who can afford it, we offer some of the best wines not only in Italy but the whole world. I am sure over the years, more and more discerning people will love to drink wines from our region. Besides Rosso and Brunello, Moscadello di Montalcino, Sant’Antimo DOC wines are also available.

A big disappointment was the fact that the presence of Carlo Ferrini, whom I fondly refer as Houdini of Tuscani, went practically un-noticed. Forget about the TV and the Press, who are still ignorant of wines, by and large, and still look for designers and models for their stories, the organizers Veronafiere missed out a great opportunity of showcasing the man who has helped transform the Tuscan wine industry into a highly acclaimed region.

Along with his colleague Gioia Cresti who was here with wines from her Chianti winery Fattoria Carpineta Fontalpino, Carlo who is compared internationally with Michel Rolland except his constraint that he can express in English only the way I can express myself in Italian. At a dinner we had together in the Park Hotel where he explained to me over the delicious Indian cuisine at the Fire that ,’ between the two of us we manage about 25 vineyards as far as in Sicily through about 70 wine makers working for us.’ Although I had mentioned about him in the Italian Wine Guide 2006, it was only a few months ago that I had a chance meeting with him at a Chianti Classico producer.

It would have been extremely useful to have had him present a seminar on wine making or have Indian producers meet him. It turned out truly an incognito visit for him.

Che peccato! What a pity!

Italy is coming on strong on the Indian scene with ICE participating in IFE and now this Show. There is hardly an importer who can do without an Italian portfolio. It looks like the Italian wines are set to win more hearts…and palates.

Subhash Arora