Pics courtesy Liszt Institute

Hungary is a land-locked country in Central Europe, close to the northern limit of the wine belt. It has been a part of the European Union since 1 May 2004. It has had a chequered history with several upheavals but always continuing to make wine which has regained much of its lost prestige especially during the Communist regime, since 1990’s after gaining independence from Russia.

With an annual rainfall of 500-900 mL of rainfall and 200 growing days, and extremely varied terrain – Volcanic, limestone, clay, marl, loes and sedimentary soils, gives Hungary enough opportunities to produce diverse portfolio of wines– sparkling, rosés and volcanic whites, full- bodied reds or matchless botrytised sweet wines with Tokaj being the most famous region.

Hungary is primarily a white wine growing country. Out of a total of 57,600 hA of grape cultivation area, about 40,000 hA is dedicated to white wines, the balance of around 17,600 hA earmarked for red varieties.

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It has six wine regions with 22 wine districts. Kunság is by far the biggest with 18,568 ha of cultivated vines. This is followed by Mátra: 5,580 ha, Eger: 5,363 ha (the famous Egri Bikavér-Bull’s Blood of Eger, a blended red wine is produced here) and Tokaj: 5,189 ha are more important ones. Here are the most grown grape varieties for those interested in such details. There are 14-15 more varieties.

WHITE GRAPES
•          Bianca (5 175 ha)
•          Cserszegi Fűszeres (3 822 ha)
•          Furmint (3 471 ha)
•          Olaszrizling (3 417 ha)
•          Chardonnay (2 013 ha)
•          Aletta (1 967 ha)
•          Irsai Olivér (1 934 ha)
•          Szürkebarát (1 616 ha)
•          Hárslevelű (1 445 ha)
•          Muller Thurgau (1 207 ha)

RED GRAPES
•          Kékfrankos (7 124 ha)
•          Cabernet Sauvignon (2 264 ha)
•          Merlot (2 024 ha)
•          Cabernet Franc (1 360 ha)
•          Zweigelt (1 320 ha)
•          Pinot Noir (1 104 ha)
•          Portuguieser (789 ha)
•          Blauburger (424 ha)
•          Syrah (311 ha)
•          Kadarka (264 ha)

History

Romans brought vines to Pannonia-in the western part of Hungary by the 5th century AD. During the centuries that followed, new grape varieties were brought in from Italy and France, including possibly Furmint and the other grapes of Tokaj. Mostly white wine was made.

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Hungarian wine production was badly hit during one and half centuries of Turkish occupation when the Ottoman Empire ruled from 1541 to 1699. During the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy (1867-1918) wine production gained new momentum when serious professional work began in the fields of viticulture, winemaking, regulations and trade.

Most Hungarian vineyards were affected by the Phylloxera in the late 1870’s and the 1880’s. Phylloxera bug had a devastating effect on the vineyards of Hungary till the end of the First World War. Thanks to a Treaty in 1920 Hungary lost two thirds of its territory. Communism in the country introduced collective farms and cooperatives  in1949. This resulted in more quantity but lower quality. It was not feasible for the individual growers to produce quality wines as  grapes of all quality were mixed together to make the must.

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Barely a hundred years ago, Hungary was one of the most important wine producing countries in Europe. Every royal court in Europe clinked glasses filled with precious gold Tokaj wine which had its own regulation defined in 1730. But after one hundred years of disaster and mismanagement, the renaissance of the Hungarian wine industry started in the 1990’s when the country was open to foreigners to Invest & buy the latest winemaking and bottling equipment, mixing traditions with modernity. The foreign wine producers and investors that include the well-known British journalist Hugh Johnson who invested at an early stage, are held in high regard and in foreign markets.

Wine Festivals

There are over 60 large wine festivals throughout the country  each year with thousands of visitors in attendance; most are held during the harvest season in September and October. The largest and the best known is the Budapest Wine Festival in September.

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Wines Tasted

During her Presentation, Dr Erdö had 7 wines served to showcase the quality and diversity of Hungarian wines:

1. Garamvári, Balatonboglár, Extra Dry sparkling wine
2. Martinus Winery,  Balatonfüred-Csopak,  Olaszrizling  Bio, 2021
3. Pannonhalma, Tricollis white  2021
4. Dereszla, Tokaj Dry 2021
5. Etyeki Kúria, Sopron, Kékfrankos 2018
6. Balassa, Tokaj Szamorodni, sweet 2019
7. Royal Tokaji, Tokaj, Aszú 6 puttonyos 2013

The Olaszrizling was my personal favourite even though the Dry Tokaj was an excellent example of Tokaj producing a range of dry to very sweet wines- the Royal Tokaj has a residual sugar of over 150gms but with enough acidity to have perfect balance.

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Hungarian wines have a good future in India in the long run. Meanwhile, you might enjoy them at some event of the Liszt Institute-check out their posts on Facebook or become a member. If you visit Hungary, you are 2-2.5 hours by car from the farthest vineyard from the capital Budapest. Winemakers are glad to share the history of wines and the country with visitors.

Subhash Arora